Our
family of four stayed at Starfish Reef for three and a half weeks at
the end of 2010. We have two small children, ages two and three
months. There were several things about our stay that were very
nice, such as:
- Our hosts, Jack and Kelly made dinner for us twice
- Jack and Kelly called water taxis for us whenever we asked
- A few times Jack drove us in his water taxi to places we requested
(for a fee), and soon after we first arrived he took several hours to
show us around Almirante and help us with our shopping there
- Jack picked us up in his mule (a small ATV) the last few days of our
trip. For the first three weeks of our stay it was unavailable
- The snorkeling on Starfish Reef was very nice, and we saw an octopus,
a manta ray, and lots of small fish
- Jack and Kelly installed a safety latch on the outside door of the
room our two year old slept in
- Jack and Kelly recommended a lovely hotel in Panama City for our stay
there, as well as a local tour guide who was knowledgeable and
helpful
However,
we would not recommend Starfish Reef for several reasons, including:
-
Shepherd Island, where Starfish Reef is located, has a terrible
chitra (sand fly or no-see-ums)
problem. However, Starfish Reef only offers mosquito nets for
sleeping. Importantly, chitras are much smaller than mosquitoes, so
the nets do not provide much if any coverage from chitras. Jack and
Kelly do recommend using smoke coils to keep the chitras away (which
we bought at our expense). These smoke coils do work well, however,
it is a very heavy smell and not something we were pleased to use
around our children, much less ourselves. We
were very irritated that readily available finer chitra-repelling
netting wasn't used for the beds. And no netting was provided for
our son's crib initially, we had to ask for it.
-
Internet is very important to us, since my wife has her own business,
and I work in the IT field. We specifically asked about
internet coverage when deciding where we would stay in Bocas del
Toro. Jack and Kelly informed us that their internet is in all of
the houses. However, we had hardly any internet coverage for the
first week we were guests at Starfish Reef. Gunnar repeatedly spoke
with Jack about it, and Jack finally had it fixed approximately one
week into our vacation. However, even then, it was not throughout
our house. It was only available in certain parts of the house,
excluding the living room and most of the main bedroom. And even
once it was fixed, it still had almost daily outages.
-
Jack and Kelly charge $6 for each load of laundry. Since we
originally were going to stay with them for five weeks (more on that
below), and since we have two small children, we were doing personal
laundry twice a week. One garnet was ruined in each of our first
several loads of laundry. We ended up losing five garments - four
pieces of clothes and a crib sheet that we had for over two years,
and which was now far too small to fit the pack and play. We did not
do the laundry, it was done for us. After a new shirt given to our
daughter was ruined (it had a hole in it that three pencils would fit
through), we approached Jack about it. He said that he was aware
that the washing machine had some problems, and he showed us the
filthy shirt he was wearing as further proof of this. This boggled
our minds. If he knew that his washing machine was not working
properly and was in fact ruining clothes, why did he not previously
tell us? And how could he charge us for this service?! And Jack
actually suggested that we place a patch on our daughter's shirt to
cover up the hole! When we told Kelly about our ruined items, she
told us that we should not have brought nice clothes with us on
vacation! When we told her that t-shirts and baby onesies are not
"nice clothes", she had no response. And when we showed
her a t-shirt of Gunnar's that had a large stain on it after they
washing it, she said that it looked like it was worn already. Yes,
Kelly actually said this to paying guests.
-
Jack and Kelly provided us with written information which stated
"Taxi Service: Bocas Marine Tours $8pp each way to Almirante or
Bocas to and from Shepherd Island (minimum 2 persons or $16) until 6
pm. Night taxi service with Fabian." They neglected to tell us
that Bocas Marine Taxi (BMT) may refuse to go to Shepherd Island in
inclement weather. We learned this the hard way. One afternoon we
arrived at the taxi port at 5:45pm expecting to make the 6pm taxi.
Instead, we were told that the last water taxi had left around 4pm
due to the inclement weather. We ended up paying $60.00 for a
private taxi to take us back to Starfish Reef. The same trip with
the water taxi service would have been $16.00 for all of us. Jack
and Kelly had no response when we told them of this incident. When
we were leaving Starfish Reef, Jack repeatedly said that they could
not be expected to tell us about all of the issues we may have
encountered while were were their guests. However, common sense
dicates that they would have told us if the taxi service did not
transport during inclement weather.
-
Shepherd Island is about a 20 minute boat ride from Bocas del Toro in
good weather. As stated above, Starfish Reef has, or had, a deal
with BMT to transport its guests. This worked fine in good, and
relatively good, weather. However, when the weather was poor, BMT
did not want to come out to Starfish Reef. On at least two
occasions, BMT said that it was not sure that it would be able to
come out to pick us up. It did come out, but not at the stated times
and much earlier than expected. We kept the taxi service waiting
these two times because it arrived 10-15 minutes early. Thereafter,
beginning on December 15th,
BMT refused to pick us up. Jack and Kelly told us that the service
told them that it was because we kept them waiting (which Jack
explicitly told us he knew was not fair), and when we personally
asked BMT, we were told that it was because of the inclement weather
and the dangers it posed. Notably, BMT makes several trips during
the day between Bocas del Toro and Almirante. Both locations provide
it with several passengers. Going to Starfish Reef in bad weather,
for two paying customers, likely was not worth the time, gas and
potential danger. Regardless, the sudden lack of taxi service was a
severe problem for us since it was our means of transportation. When
this happened, Jack offered to bring us to Almirante to pick up BMT
there. However, this would have increased our trip times by more
than double, since Almirante was a 15-20 minute ride in Jack's boat,
and we would then have to wait for the water taxi. So, a 20 minute
trip would become a 45-50 minute trip, each way.
-
We repeatedly had to remind Jack that our house needed weekly
cleaning, and had to specifically ask that our linens be washed
weekly. These are service that Jack and Kelly previously told us
were included.
-
Several of the steps leading to and from the dock to the houses are
washed out. Since it is a fairly steep walk, and since we were
walking it almost daily with two small children, we were disappointed
that the steps were in such deteriorated and potentially dangerous
condition.
-
The written information provided to us by Jack and Kelly on the day
we arrived states that they charge $10.00 per couple to go to Rana
Azul, a restaurant about twenty minutes by boat. We were instead
charged $16.00 per couple. We only learned that we were to have been
charged $10.00 after we re-read the paperwork several days into our
stay. If there was a rate change, we should have been informed of
this prior to taking the trips.
-
Jack invited us to join him for Thanksgiving dinner at Rana Azul.
Immediately before the dinner was an at sea funeral for a friend and
neighbor of his who recently passed away. Jack was going directly
from the funeral to Rana Azul. Jack asked us several times if we
would like to join him for both events. We had nothing else planned
for the day, and since it was Thanksgiving, we agreed. After the
dinner, Jack then asked us for $16.00 as our fare to Rana Azul (which
should have been $10.00). Not once previously did he mention that
there would be a charge. This annoyed us since he had several
opportunities to tell us that he would charge us, AND because it was
clear that he was going to the funeral and dinner afterwards with or
without us. It certainly made us feel that we were being nicked and
dimed by Starfish Reef.
-
Jack and Kelly offer several excursions, with rates ranging from
$20.00 to $550.00. We asked that they take us on the chocolate tour
at Green Acres Farm no fewer than five or six times before they
scheduled a visit for us. Notably, this is their cheapest excursion.
-
The website states that the property has "a working green
rainforest and Cacao plantation". This led us to
believe that the property contained a cacao plantation. It does not.
It has cacao trees, but no working cacao (or chocolate) plantation.
-
The two-way radio between our house and Jack and Kelly's house often
did not work because, as Jack and Kelly said, their radio "needed
new batteries." We would then communicate by yelling to each
other from the porches of our houses.
We
originally planned to stay at Starfish Reef for five weeks, and we
prepaid for five weeks. We decided to leave Starfish Reef five days
early, on December 20th,
because we were very disappointed with our lodgings and the property,
and because we were spending so much time there due to the very rainy
weather. If the weather was better and we were out of the house and
off the island more, many of the problems stated above would not have
bothered us as much. We asked for a refund for those five days, and
were told that we would not get one because, as Jack said, "singly
or collectively", the issues we raised did not qualify for a
refund. We were shocked by this response in light of all of the
problems we had during our stay.
We
ended up leaving five days earlier than that because, on December
15th,
both BMT stopped coming to Starfish Reef (as per the above), and
because there was no water in our house. Jack had installed a new
valve on the water pump on December 14th.
The water was leaking for several hours after Jack's installation.
We were gone that afternoon, and when we returned in the early
evening and heard running water, we tried reaching Jack and Kelly to
tell them that we thought there was a problem. We tried them on the
two-way radio beginning at approximately 6pm. No one answered. We
tried off and on until 11pm, but there was no answer. We also yelled
for them from our balcony, to no avail. The next morning we woke
them up at 6:30am by yelling at them from our balcony. When we told
them that we had been trying to reach them all evening and into the
night, Jack said that he turns off the two-way radio at night
(meaning that we have no means of communicating with our hosts at
night). When we told him that we tried reaching him in the early
evening, he had no response. He later repeatedly asked us if we used
up all of the water. We told him that we did not, that we were gone
that afternoon, and that we heard the pump running for several hours
and kept trying to inform him of it. It was evident to us that the
problem likely stemmed from the work Jack did on the pump earlier
that day, but he sought to blame us instead.
Two
comments in closing. What bothered us the most was that Jack and
Kelly did not accept responsibility for obvious problems at Starfish
Reef - their laundry machine not working properly, their internet not
working and/or not working throughout the entire house, the water
pump, etc. They never once said "We're sorry, how can we make
this up to you?" We travel quite a bit and usually do not have
any complaints. Here, we were faced with many problems at Starfish
Reef that made our stay far less enjoyable, and when we raised these
issues, Jack and Kelly's response was always to deflect it back onto
us.
Secondly,
we would not recommend this property for a family or for anyone
staying for more than a week. However, if the internet is not
important to you, you are not doing a laundry, chitras don't bother
you much, and BMT is traveling again to Starfish Reef, etc., you may
enjoy this property. There is a lot of beauty there and the houses
are spacious and modern. If you are looking to get away for a few
days to a week and aren't bothered by what we wrote above, this may
be the place for you. But for us, it was clearly far less than we
were led to believe we would find. We were over-promised, and were
very disappointed to find a dilapidated property, with hosts who do
not take responsibility for problems on their property.
Alysa
Freeman and Gunnar Hillert, January 2011.